Quilt Fabric Calculator
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Top, backing, binding, and total fabric yardage for your quilt size.
Quilt dimensions
Total fabric
11.78 yd
Top 3.35 · Backing 4.16 · Binding 4.28 yd
- Top yardage
- 3.35 yd
- Backing yardage
- 4.16 yd
- Binding yardage
- 4.28 yd
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Quilt fabric yardage
Quilt yardage splits into three main buys: top fabric (pieced or whole-cloth area), backing (typically larger than the quilt on each side for longarm or hand quilting), and binding (strips around the perimeter). This calculator assumes standard 44-inch-wide quilting cotton — the width most bolt labels list before pre-wash shrinkage.
Top yardage converts quilt width × height into square inches, then divides by fabric width × 36 inches per yard. Seam allowances in piecing add fractional yardage; enter your typical allowance per seam join. A 10% buffer covers shrinkage, squaring up, and directional prints where you cannot rotate pieces. Pattern-specific calculators are more accurate for complex blocks — use this for quick whole-quilt estimates.
Backing must extend beyond the quilt top so longarm quilters can clamp the excess — this tool adds 8 inches to both width and height before computing backing yardage. Wider backing fabric (108-inch) can avoid seams on large quilts; if you use wide backing, recalculate manually or reduce the backing line in your shopping list.
Binding yardage follows the quilt perimeter. The estimate assumes 2.5-inch-wide strips that finish around half an inch on the edge — multiply perimeter by strip width, convert to yards, and apply the same buffer. Add extra for diagonal joins on large quilts and for mitered corners if your technique uses longer strips.
Worked example with defaults: a 60 × 80 inch throw on 44-inch-wide fabric needs about 3.7 yards for the top, 4.2 yards for backing, and 4.3 yards for binding — roughly 12.1 yards total with the 10% buffer and 0.5-inch seam allowance. A queen at 90 × 90 inches may need 8–10 yards depending on whether you piece the back or use 108-inch wide goods.
Pre-wash cotton if you plan to wash the finished quilt — expect 3–5% shrinkage and buy accordingly. Fat quarters and precuts simplify small projects but may not match pattern yardage if the designer assumed yardage cuts. Lay out backing pieces on graph paper before buying to confirm one seam versus two. Label each bolt with project name and intended use (top, back, binding) so you do not mix cuts mid-project.
Limits: pieced tops with many small blocks, sashing, and borders need block-level math this tool does not provide. Batting is separate — buy batting slightly larger than the quilt top, similar to backing overhang. Not a substitute for pattern yardage charts included with commercial quilt designs.
Common questions
Why is backing yardage larger than the top?
Backing must extend beyond the quilt top so longarm quilters can clamp the excess. The calculator adds 8 inches to width and height before computing backing yardage. Hand quilters in hoops may need less overhang — adjust your buy if you know your finishing method.
How much binding do I need?
Binding goes around the quilt perimeter. This estimate assumes 2.5-inch-wide strips (finished ~½ inch binding). Multiply perimeter by strip width and convert to yards — add extra for joins, corners, and diagonal seams on large quilts.
Does fabric width matter for yardage?
Yes. Quilting cotton is often 42–44 inches usable width after selvage. Enter your actual usable width from the bolt — wider backing reduces seam joins and can lower total yardage for the back layer.